Arriving at Agonda, I’m instantly happier. It’s a very small beach town with far less people. I have a little wooden hut with a terrace right on the beach overlooking the sea. A perfect spot to end my trip! Although there are 4 huts, I’m the only person there. It gets even better when I’m paid a visit by a local beach dog, who I later learn from the hotel owners is called Li Li. They tell me they feed her, but she’s skin and bones, so I head to the shop to stock up on beers and dog treats. She practically moves in after this, and spends the next few days sleeping under my sunbed.
I spend the afternoon on my sun lounger reading my book but it’s absolutely baking. I venture into the sea to cool off, but it’s like taking a warm bath. Plus the current here can be quite strong so I decide to stick to cold showers. That evening, Li Li and I watch the sunset together. I’m feeling back to normal at this point, so I head to Agonda Serenity for a Goan fish curry and a piña colada. Delicious.
The next morning I head to Zest cafe, as recommended by my hotel and pretty much every travel guide. It has a very hippy vibe with lots of bamboo and plants, which means I’m surrounded by yoga wankers ordering oat milk flat whites and vegan breakfasts. Sadly avocados aren’t in season, so I order the scrambled eggs with goats cheese, sundried tomatoes and spring onion and it’s divine! I end up having breakfast here every morning and making my way through the menu.
That afternoon I jump in a tuk tuk and head to neighbouring beach, Palolem, to hang out with Chantal. It’s also a nice beach, but busier than Agonda, so I’m glad I chose the location I did. We spend the afternoon chatting and drinking beer. I then stop for a £10 full body massage on the way back to my hotel.
For dinner I wander along the beach to Simrose. The waiter winks and clicks his tongue at me after everything I order, which I don’t love. The food, however, is pretty good. I order a typical Goan dish, chicken xacuti, which has grated coconut and a variety of spices.
The next day I awake to a sea of cows on the beach. There are actually more cows than people in Agonda, which I don’t mind at all, until one of them decides to take a shit two feet from my lounger. They’re clever little bastards too, as I watch one of them turn my outside shower on to cool off and have a drink. That afternoon, Chantal pays me a visit and we have lunch together in Kamaya restaurant along the beach. I ordered the masala fry fish which is delicious. Obviously all the fish here is super fresh and caught that day. Just wish I had more time to try more things.
I spend some time sitting chatting to the hotel owner and manager, who are two of the loveliest people I’ve met. Dana is from Khazakstan and Pankaj from North India. They live and work 6 months in Agonda and then shut up shop and head home during monsoon season. Not a bad life, but my main concern is who feeds the dogs when they all go home??
I awake to my last day in India. I head to Zest cafe for breakfast (smoothie bowl this time), feed the dogs, and enjoy the sun. I’m ready to go home, but not ready for the cold that awaits, or the thousands of emails in my inbox. However, in less than 3 months I’ll be back on Indian shores for a 9 day hike in Kerala!
On the plus side, my heating has been off for 3 weeks and saved me some ££. But that also means the flat will be baltic when I arrive home friday afternoon. And there’ll be no food in the house of course. Maybe I’ll order a curry…
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